Dry Lakes Racers Australia

lol. I Owe I Owe.....

Going to try and start on the 80 now I got a 2" Die on Saturday. Sunday I've got to finish some Wheel Tubs and minor rust repairs on somebody else's car.

Can anyone recommend a super low jack? All I can fit now is a scissors type wind up and it's becoming a real PIA!

Meanwhile, on the engine front I've had a great leap forward thanks to a couple of mates in the US (thanks Scott and Craig). VVTi heads flow more than ported non-VVTi and the lower half of the inlet manifold adapts easily to independant throttle bodies. We're working on shipping at the moment.

I haven't decided whether to use the VVTi mechanisms or go non-VVTi, more reading required for me on that front. Any thoughts appreciated here.

Another bonus would have been the coil on plug setup but someone else had already scored those before the boys got there.



Cheers,
Rob

Rob wrote:Can anyone recommend a super low jack? All I can fit now is a scissors type wind up and it's becoming a real PIA!

I can probably hook you up with one of those Ultra Low Alloy ones

Rob wrote: Another bonus would have been the coil on plug setup but someone else had already scored those before the boys got there.


Cheers,
Rob

I've got a spare set of LS1 coils here
Also have plugs to suit too...I think

Thanks Dave,

I was more looking for feedback from people owning one as to what the better brand(s) may be or which ones to avoid.

Coils may be solved, I'm awaiting an email.

Cheers,
Rob

Rob wrote:Can anyone recommend a super low jack? All I can fit now is a scissors type wind up and it's becoming a real PIA!

Rob,

Whilst I was working weekends at the tool shop some "Cannon" brand jacks came in. The one that impressed me, and which I ended up buying, was the 2.75 tonne model with a minimum height of 85mm. It has a twin piston pump and lifts up to 475mm. Being a heavy duty steel model it's a bit of a strain for an old bloke like me to lift and chuck in the back of the truck, but I am really happy with it and I reckon it will outlast me! The Australian distributor is Brendans Tools & Accessories - they have an eBay store and currently have 2 for sale at $295.00 (buy it now). Brendans are located in Adelaide and they will arrange freight. You're quite welcome to borrow mine and make sure it will fit your needs.

(Note: I have no connection with Brendans, financial or otherwise, and have had no dealings with them directly.)

Cheers,

Pete

Thanks Pete,

Appreciate the offer, I think 85mm minimum will still be too high once I get the suspension down. I'll come by and have a look.

Cheers,
Rob

Rob, if your sills are only going to be around a couple of inches off the salt you'll never find an off the shelf jack to do the job. You could always just make one for the job from good thick steel plate and use a hydraulic bottle jack as the muscle.
Cheers
Dave

I know of two (Vtec or what ever the manufacturer call their Valve/Cam Timing adjustment ) examples though not 1UZ FEs. One was a much modified Honda Civic Hill Climb/Circuit sedan and a Datto1600/Nissan SR20 Road conversion. Both ran without the Vtec connected at first and then got it working and both said it was like turning the boost up on a turbo engine or adding another cylinder. Much more mid range and top end as well as a much smoother power delivery. Certainly worth it from what both of the owners told me, and both were a bit cynical until they made the change.

RGV Pete

David Leikvold wrote:Rob, if your sills are only going to be around a couple of inches off the salt you'll never find an off the shelf jack to do the job. You could always just make one for the job from good thick steel plate and use a hydraulic bottle jack as the muscle.
Cheers
Dave

Thanks Dave,

I thought I'd seen an alloy one with a 50mm minimum height but am darned if I can find it now. From memory it had a solid front roller in between the two frame legs rather than two seperate wheels on the outside.

Cheers,
Rob

AuotonomousRX wrote:I know of two (Vtec or what ever the manufacturer call their Valve/Cam Timing adjustment ) examples though not 1UZ FEs. One was a much modified Honda Civic Hill Climb/Circuit sedan and a Datto1600/Nissan SR20 Road conversion. Both ran without the Vtec connected at first and then got it working and both said it was like turning the boost up on a turbo engine or adding another cylinder. Much more mid range and top end as well as a much smoother power delivery. Certainly worth it from what both of the owners told me, and both were a bit cynical until they made the change.

RGV Pete

Thanks for the feedback Pete,

I'd read that it (VVTi) made more mid range power but had no idea on top end.

The VVTi 1UZ reportedly makes 40hp over the non-VVTi but there were several other improvements to the engine including the in. & exh. ports, inlet manifold design and compression ratio so it was hard to gauge the hp increase directly attributed to VVTi.

Cheers,
Rob

Rob, just had a quick look and the best one I found had the single front roller and aluminium parts but it was still 80mm high at its lowest. Is that going to be low enough to get under your sills? Of course there's always a set of low wooden drive-on ramps that lift the car a couple of inches first.

http://www.transquip.com.au/product.aspx?ID=5734

Cheers
Dave

That first jack was a bit pricey at $429, here's a cheaper one that is almost identical and is only 86mm tall at its lowest. And it's only $199. It says it's out of stock, but hopefully that's only temporary.

http://www.diytools.com.au/15-Ton-Alumi ... 370A6.html

Cheers
Dave

ummmmmmmm, put a bung in the front of the car that you can plug and use a hi-rise jack....easy

You need a 'chute mount( assuming it's gonna go that fast ) put a bung in there too, then you can spit roast it..........

$429

or pinch one out of the boot of an HJ..... five bucks.

I always knew you were a strange man Goggles, paying 5 bucks for something you've pinched.

Rob all the variable cam timing stuff wev'e done at work has been worthwhile.
The alloytec commodore we did we fully built with bigger valves and comp etc, made our own billets for cams and used Motec control.

Advantage 1 was idle control and quality with big cams. Then with Motec you could optimise the power/torque curb all the way through the range.
Lambos have a very similar setup to the Alloytec ie constantly variable intake and exhaust right through the range. Even look the same.
Warning, you do need to fully understand the combination before you start screwing with valve timing as big cams and valves can collide if you get the timing wrong.
Are the Toyotas constantly variable or a simple 2 position?
If its the simple system you can do your worst . Regardless of engine speed things can't hit
Chris

I was going to suggest jacking off the chute mount/push bar as well. That's what we did on the Jag + the front bumper slides off and the support acts as a jack point too.

Once it's up in the air we can whack the axle stands in.

Lynchy