Dry Lakes Racers Australia

....... EXCELLENT......

Understanding that we are all working on a concrete floor, a basic paremiter box is somewhat of a necessaty.Not only is it going to be helpfull here . it is also a free chassis alignment jig ( cars included )
measure of vehicle and start drawing onto floor . drill holes at intersection points & insert wall plugs then in with the screws .these points are for pulling string lines from.
IF concrete floor is unavailable & lunacy levels are high, just bang nails into lounge room floor. IF still a problem , go out on street ,as council has provided perfectly good tarseal to work with.


PS: As a piece of the instructions was lost to CYBER SPECE last night I will submit this now and some more later tonight.

.......NEXT.....
Get vehical lined up in parimeter box , cut sheets to desired size square & accurate and cable tie ends together. DO NOT use glue gun yet . as it needs to be dissasembled again.. Take drawing and start imposing siloete onto sides . fat tip Marker pen is good, but once marked the only way to get it of is buy sanding it carefully . you can experiment with different design on either side if you like . JIMMY , I did read that the team was about to change shape of rear cover . IS IT ALUMINIUM ?
CHRISS is there a front bar on XP ? only photos Ive seen, shows it missing .
RX I would assume rotary but dont know ! and
VN will search tommorow but so far havent found pictures .
rest are bike boys & getting impatient no doubt.


PS IF any questions don,t be shy to ask . only bite heads of CHOCOLATE FISH

Ross the XP has a solid steel front bar but this learning is not for her.

My Comp Coupe is a Diahatsu Mira and apart from a body with a chopped of roof and a delapidated rule book written by Mickey Mouse on crack, l only have my etchings of her proposed glory. She has 3 projects in front of her so don't think l will be doing more on her this year.
Will hunt up a shot thou.

Chris

Early days
Need to make long nose

I fixed the link for ya Chris (DLRA)

HAVE night of boy's , camera is giving me hard time .

Chris . Early days & need long nose , make some sort of sense to me.
the rest of it is total jiberish.
Have only been puter geek for 3 months, pushed both left & right buttons & got even more jiberish.
SOMEONE ..................PLEASE EXPLAIN.............

here ya go Roscoe, click on the blue stuff bro'

http://s869.photobucket.com/albums/ab25 ... g&newest=1

what you can do is get the cursor at the end of a webline like that, hold down the left click and highlight the whole thing (blue) then press ctrl and "C" at the same time , then open a new browser window and "paste" ( by holding ctrl and "V" at the same time into the address bar, then press enter and it will take you there.....

THANKS DOC

Chris XP is super cool
Little MIRA looks to be huge project. A 6mm sandwich approach will suit your aplication perfectly. you will enjoy the speed at which you can work with these products .
Ross.

Thanks DR G
I got the sh%tswiththebloodyinternetcrashedandthephotodogshit so l went to bed.
Ross. That was very early days and the top black tape is a bit higher than the top windscreen line. At ride height the frontal area will be a bit less than 13 sq feet. Compared to the ute at 46 sq ft. The wheelbase is now locked in at around 150" so the nose will be longer than the photo suggests. Front tyre will be about 22" Dia, the yellow rim is 24.5".
I could work backwards and make the body first then make it all fit in but need to spend another couple months on design before l am game to take this step.
Other salt projects have jumped the queue but the Mira plus 1200hp sounds like a fun time so shes never far from my mind.

Chris

Good to see i'm not the only one at war with the stinking CYBORGS
Have loaded pictures into 486 & can work on them in PAINT.
As Chris has shown it is good to have overhead centre lines as well ,

will be back tonight
Ross

NEXT:
Work out width & hieght at seat . IF you are to fat : tie things to the frame to pump out bodywork .
Then make the seat cut . ya dont have to do both sides at the same time. get one side to how you like it ,then dismantle it .lie one side against other & copy cut.
When tying of to frame rails or mounts, pack out with off cut as shown in picture this will give you distance with inner layer of glass if needed.

PS :as you can see ive just updated to new model D camera
model C had upload problems with 486

OKAY :
Start cutting shapes into body .Add your seat back ( when working with full size ,the divinicell will bend easilly enough to suit the round of your butt ) . slip front nose peice in to desired angle & clean of front point.

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Yes I do realise it looks like something from the time when Moses & his mates were doing the bolt from the original desert racing roman hoons.
But it will evolve!

When cutting , it is advisable to cut out side the lines as it is easier to cut more of than to glue a piece back on. as shown, shape of nose has changed again. add your tail pieces in . if wanting large radius corners glue extra pieces into the inside , so that you can grind & sand well past the square edges. do not start try to radius the bottom yet, as the way it sits the cover can still be liffted of motorbike

All going well next update monday.

Ross

The Mira looks pretty cool but Chris was going to chop it (a lot). Are you able to give it a virtual chop??

Lynchy

YEP !
[/img]
All done in PAINT !

You don't muck about Ross.

I had to go out to the shed and see if you got the height right and using the ute as a gauge thats about spot on. The Mira will stand a bit above dick height for us average size blokes. That is just above the front guard on the ute.
The grille and headlights will be gone and it will have a single round air intake central at the front at headlight height.
The front tires will require a bulge and the engine and intake bulge will go to 3/4 windscreen height with a small section of screen each side left clear for vision.

The front will all then be blended to a slippery shape

Chris