We will need to run an outboard bearing on both shafts Dave, as you pointed out the input shaft and output shafts at both designed to be supported by the spigot bearing and extension housing bearings respectively.RGV wrote:That's going to put a hell of a lot of side load on the input and output shafts that weren't designed for it?
Could you use a small shot of NOS to get you off the line, say 50 HP?
A hit of NO2 won't do the job, it's getting everything moving forward enough to be able to fully engage the clutch with gearing high enough to pull the top speed Greg's after, need to increase the gap between bottom gear ratio and top gear ratio.
As Ross said, it's why Ack pushes off, BUB tow starts and Sam is putting another gear in.
If your power band is wide enough you could go with a wider ratio box ($$$$), if your power band isn't wide enough you need more ratios so you don't fall out of the power on a shift.
To those with dry sump experience, how tall does the tank need to be and how many de-aeration plates are needed?
Guessing you return at a vector up the top and draw from a taper in the base?