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Re: theTRUTH

Posted: Fri Oct 06, 2017 8:49 pm
by russelllowe
Hi Guys,

Well, the Harky solution was a success! M10 x 1.5 holes at each end ... I got 20mm in at the clutch end and about 15mm in on the output sprocket end.

Drilling it turned out to be the easy part. Had the Colchester on 30rpm (which looks like its hardly moving by the way) and used a 8.5mm cobalt bit (so .1mm oversize for the bolt), loads of lubricant and moderate pressure. I think I chipped the corner off the bit when it first grabbed. But I could get reasonable ribbons off it as it went.

Tapping it was nerve wracking though. Actually, it's fair to say I was shitting my pants the whole way; I thought the tap would snap off at every turn and I'd slice my wrist open in the process. Once I was in about 5mm it was a quarter to a half a turn at a time before backing it out, cleaning all the chips off and going back in for another go. My taps were from a set I got from Hare and Forbes and don't even cut mild steel without a fight. Lucky I had three tapers though, I really had to work into it. The most tapered one did the most work ... and looked a bit ropey at the end. A few small teeth at the tapered end lost their tips.

I didn't so much give up at the 20mm and 15mm marks, I told myself over and over not to push my luck ... a broken tap in there would have been a real fucker to get out.

Anyway, here's a picture:

Image

Looks harmless doesn't it!

Anyway, those holes and $230 of angular contact bearings and I'm pretty sure I have a solution that has a fighting chance of working.

Now, if only the guy who I paid $3600 for my ignition and fuel pump for a while ago would return my calls ... anyone live near Bendigo?

Cheers!

Re: theTRUTH

Posted: Fri Oct 06, 2017 8:56 pm
by russelllowe
Oh, and ...

Image

Re: theTRUTH

Posted: Fri Oct 06, 2017 10:45 pm
by harky
DRINK ,!
😍

Re: theTRUTH

Posted: Sat Oct 07, 2017 10:12 am
by momec3
Well done.

Re: theTRUTH

Posted: Sun Oct 22, 2017 7:32 pm
by russelllowe
Hi Guys,

Been a bit quiet but haven't totally being sitting on my hands ... finally bit the bullet and bought some RHS for the bolt together Jig parts I bought a few years ago. Wish I'd done it much earlier actually, it's brilliant how straight and square this stuff is. Also go a bit smart and had the steel supplier cut it all to length, and deliver it (all things I planned on doing myself, but to be honest ... never again, they make it so easy).

The RHS is 75 x 50 x 3mm with the Jig parts from ChopSource (I may even put one of their stickers on the Jig, very cool stuff ... I have their rotisserie parts too, but for now the bike lift seemed like the better option).

Also got the tube for the frame itself. It's 1 1/4" (31.8mm) with 2.6mm wall DOM ... 4 x 6m lengths. And one length of 1 5/8" (41.3mm) for the fork legs. That has a 3.6mm wall; so will have to turn it down a bit to get it into the triple trees. Only 0.3mm though so no drama there.

Here it is, with the first tubes bent for going around the motor:

Image

There is another one the same U shape (out of shot) that goes 300mm above this one and is connected by 16 short verticals. So that's what I'll be doing this week!

After that it's connecting the Suzuki headstock you can see in the background and job done! Hahahaha ... yeah, not quite, but it's still plan A so that has to be a good sign ...

Cheers!

(P.S. the outside of those tubes is 750mm wide which is the widest point on the bike ... wider than I'd hoped but symmetrical so hopefully it'll go straight)

Re: theTRUTH

Posted: Sun Nov 05, 2017 8:44 pm
by russelllowe
Well, I've learnt that there's no point having a jig if you don't use it ... I tacked the two U shapes (in the last post) together a little on the piss.

No real drama though, after grinding off the tack welds and welding some extra stoppers and fixtures and buying a bunch more clamps and magnets I got it all straight and square and where it should be so I'm back in business!

Here's the motor cradle ... almost all tacked together.

Image

The upright just to the right of the rear vertical RHS is right in the middle of the chain run. It's not tacked yet so I'll pull it out and replace it with a couple of 50x5mm bars spaced apart so the chain can do its thing. Happy I realised that before welding it ... and makes me think I should probably make a better model of the clutch/jackshaft and chain so I don't make too many more cock up's.

Cheers!

Re: theTRUTH

Posted: Sun Nov 05, 2017 10:28 pm
by Deni dave
coming along well, how I missed your build thread I don't know...

As you know my v8 bike uses a standard v8 clutch, most of the sand boys use a triple plate crower, another mate has a bitumen drag v8 bike and he actually uses a split c4 auto that runs parallel behind the motor then a sprocket from the very short rear housing with an outrigger bearing. That thing is off its head with a supercharged Windsor for motorvation....

Re: theTRUTH

Posted: Mon Nov 06, 2017 6:44 am
by russelllowe
Hi Dave. Welcome!

Yeah, I took a good look at the Crowerglide clutches before settling on the QuaterMaster. In the end I realised I don't need the automatic take up for quick acceleration like a drag or sand drag bike; I just need to be able to start the bike in gear and get rolling without drama.

Still keen to see your setup out of curiosity though.

Also keen to see any pics you have of the other V8 bikes.

Will you bring yours out in 2018?

Cheers!

Re: theTRUTH

Posted: Thu Nov 09, 2017 5:06 pm
by BONES
Hey Russell
How are you going to activate the clutch?
Can you tack the backend together and put the motor in to check everything.
Hey-- you should buy a commodore with the same engine and then you would have a spare. :D

cheers Bones

Re: theTRUTH

Posted: Fri Nov 10, 2017 4:13 am
by russelllowe
Hey Bones, yeah, the back end is pure GSX1000 so it's a matter of getting the swingarm spindle in the right place. Everything else is sweet after that.

Clutch? Hydraulic. Something will bridge between the cage at the back; and it will push against that.

Would hate to think a brand new motor would need a spare. When I go for 400mph I'll have a spare. I should probably run this one in though.

You still in the states?

Beginning to think a Hayabusa would be a good option ...

Cheers!

Re: theTRUTH

Posted: Fri Nov 17, 2017 7:31 am
by russelllowe
Hi Guys,

Some frame progress to show; had to grab another length of 1 1/4" tube to finish it off ... that's 5 x 6m lengths. So the frame should weigh about 70kg when it's done I recon. Not that it matters. All tacked together at this stage. There wont be much diagonal bracing (I prefer the access you get with a vierendeel truss) but might attach a few stressed skins (in aluminium) in a few high stress areas. Some gussets to go too ... especially where the GSF650 frame connects to the spine.

Image

The water tank will drop into the middle of the spine (with some struts bolted on over the top to close that part of the frame structurally.

I had planned for fuel to sit on top of the water tank in the rear just ahead of the motor, but the hole left under the GSF650 frame section is asking for something. Graham, if you are watching, where would you prefer to see it from a safety perspective?

Every time I think I'm making good progress I'm reminded of how much more there is to do ... I made a list yesterday, its really fucking long; and many jobs are actually 3 or 4 sub jobs. Anyway, it'll happen.

Cheers!

Re: theTRUTH

Posted: Fri Nov 17, 2017 9:47 pm
by Stayt`ie
Its the little stuff that takes time,,

That list will never end,,

This is an interesting build, keep up the good work :D

Re: theTRUTH

Posted: Sat Nov 18, 2017 7:11 am
by Greg Watters
Build looks good but why so much rake ?

Re: theTRUTH

Posted: Sat Nov 18, 2017 7:58 am
by russelllowe
Hi Stayt'ie, yeah, loads of small things to come too ... Cheers!

Hi Greg, thanks, it might look a little exaggerated in the pic ... it's 45 degrees; main reason was to get the steering head tube down as low as possible. Hoofhearted used 45 degrees on his bike and by all accounts that was very stable, so I went with that. It'll have quite a bit of trail ... which I could adjust by shifting the position of the axle relative to the fork tubes (which I'm making). I think the main issue with so much rake and trail is low speed flop. I'm happy to sacrifice that for high speed stability. One of the reasons why I changed my design to go head forward, rather than feet forward, was because I felt I could be more in control at low speed that way around. What will you be running in your streamliner?

Cheers!

Re: theTRUTH

Posted: Sat Nov 18, 2017 11:16 am
by grumm441
russelllowe wrote:
Fri Nov 17, 2017 7:31 am


I had planned for fuel to sit on top of the water tank in the rear just ahead of the motor, but the hole left under the GSF650 frame section is asking for something. Graham, if you are watching, where would you prefer to see it from a safety perspective?

Cheers!


From a safety perspective, put it somewhere safe
Best place would be where it doesn't get damaged if it falls on it's side

G