Window safety film

[GeeTee]

..what are the standards/requirements for safety film?
The regs say: "All vehicles under 250 MPH shall have SAFETY film on BOTH SIDES of all non-laminated safety glass windows"...but what standards/requirements (AS or other) need to be met?

[David Leikvold]

I was always told that the clear plastic stuff kids use to cover their school books was all that was needed. Its only purpose is to hold the broken safety glass in one piece so that dozens of volunteers don't have to spend hours in the blazing sun looking for tiny pieces of clear glass on a very large, bright white, damp surface. The problem is that the tiny bits of broken glass that are in the rubber channel won't be stuck to the plastic. If you put an extra layer on the outside and then ran them both out onto the body for a couple of inches all round the glass you'd have a much better chance of keeping all the glass chips together and inside the body of the car. You could always solve the problem permanently by replacing the glass with Lexan.

Cheers
Dave

[GeeTee]

thanks for that Dave, yep I agree the safety film is a good idea - I've had to sweep up 'motorsport diamonds' once or twice, from inside the car, and out...doing it on the salt would be a PITA. It should be recommended more often in other motorsports!

I'd happily use window tint on one side, Contact on the outer side (I reckon it would be strong enough to contain the broken glass) but will use proper gear if required to do so...and If I can determine what it is

When I asked at the window tinters (also do safety film for shops, mines and transport/school coaches etc) he mentioned different thicknesses, and standards for strength etc etc etc...that's why I'm asking. Plus, film for shops and flat-windowed busses doesn't follow curvy glass too easily.

I can cover the glass before the rubbers/installation so there wil be 100% coverage, right to the edges

[David Leikvold]

I didn't realise Beetle glass had any compound curves! Seriously though, I suppose the best thing to use would be the bus or shop window stuff for your windscreen because presumably it'll be the best to see through and if it's expensive use something cheaper, like the school book stuff, for the other glass where perfect transparency isn't so important. The tint on the inside is a good idea, you could use the darkest available as opposed to street legal. The glare off the salt is always there.

Cheers
Dave

[GeeTee]

yeah Beetles have compound curved glass for rear, and mine has a high-tech roundy front windscreen too!

So, I'll do this: brand-new laminated road car windscreen. All other glass (toughened OE) aftermarket tinted on inside, then plastic film on exterior surface. No door mirrors, plus a sheet of plastic film on each headlight glass

[GeeTee]

.. the next "challenge" I have is the fact that Safety Film is thick and flat so can't be applied flush to curved surfaces...but I guess that won't matter for the rear window. I will pie-cut it to fit without too many ugly raised edges

[Rob]

G'day GeeTee,

You could also apply it in narrow strips rather than one full sheet allowing a bit more give. When I had the back window tinted in my HQ Monaro it had seven pieces. If the window had been in the car they said it would have taken more.

Cheers,
Rob

[GeeTee]

Top idea Rob thanks for that

[Norm]

Any idea where I can get the flim from.

Norm

[DLRA]

Found this
Safety Film 83% - 10 Meter Roll ($69) - http://www.protinting.com.au/index.php? ... &Itemid=64

Here's a list of suppliers - http://www.google.com.au/search?q=windo ... 40&bih=743

and there is heaps on eBay

[GeeTee]

Good stuff, I have asked at automotive window tinters, plus phoned O'Briens, 3M Australia, etc etc etc with NO joy

FWIW, I applied school-book Contact to one side of a VW side window (toughened glass) and threw it at the ground. When it cracked (it took a few goes) the Contact didn't have enough 'grip' to prevent some glass diamonds coming loose. Architectural/house 'window film' on both sides of the glass (I did 50/50 with the Contact and film) did retain the glass chuncks, as long as it was all the way to the edge of the glass (ie: under the window rubber) A few bits escaped where the film wasn't all the way to the edge.
Summary is: one layer of film doesn't hold. Contact doesn't hold, even when backed with film. But two layers of film seems to work

[Rob]

Both tinted and untinted safety film is available for anyone wanting the best of both worlds. I wouldn't make it too dark, you may need rescuers to see exactly what is going on in there in a bad situation.

Cheers,
Rob