Dry Lakes Racers Australia

Still no luck in getting my POS running.

Symptoms....Starts ok runs until it starts to warm up then stalls, was doing this when hot now when it reaches only about 120Deg F, will start again straight away then stop after aprox 1-2 seconds, will keep doing this until battery exhausted, allow to cool and it repeats as above.

What I have tried to date
Fuel.... checked lines ok, checked pumps ok, pressure 45psi placed inline gauge pressure does not fluctuate, checked flow rates ok more than enough flow at max usage, tank breather ok, replaced malpassi regs with new 1:1 sards, checked flow under gravity from fuel tank and graphed ok, checked methanol aprox 2% higher specific gravity than pure so it has maybe a little water in it but not enough to cause problems ??, had fuel injectors flow tested and cleaned ok, noid light shows they are firing when cranking at least, maps same as when running ok no change.

Spark.... new plugs, new leads, coils ok, cables and connectors ok, removed all plugs and grounded all fire when cranking, noid light shows coils receiving signal when cranking, will start and run briefly on cylinder 1 and 4 disconnected same when 2and 3 disconnected.

compression... cylinders 1 thru 4 static psi in all greater than 170, valve lash checked within tollerences, sticking valve /s ???

timing..... cam position checked atdc ok cam chain ok, sprockets ok, tensioner ok, removed hall sensors and magnets out board of engine, new cam and crank hall sensors, new high temp and strength magnets, crank and home signals being received constantly no missing signals, fixed timing to 10 deg btdc and checked with timing light ok at least when cranking.

Electricial wiring and halteck ....cam sensor new and ok, crank sensor new ok, checked MAP with vacuum and pressure is reading both ways, water temp ( really oil temp ) working, air temp reading ok, TPS reading 0 to 100 % ok, double checked fuel maps and ignition maps ok, correction maps same as before when it was running, checked intake rubbers for air leaks ok, has battry tested ok but got a new one anyway, all earths ok less than 0.01 ohm difference anywhere on bike, checked all connectors seen tight and secure.

I have reached my limit of things to check any thing I missed ??? ok engine guru's what else to look for?

cheers Gary

Ok
Let me be the first , the 2 pin kill switches lots of people use are " crap" ang give all sorts of trouble when they are old , dirty,or have been activated lots ,
Some will say , what about the temp thing , well the kill switches on load / time still gives lots of trouble , I use a " switch"
A lar outboard kill switch , marine grade , water prof , and switches , not crapy 2 pin contacts !
There after that rave I feel better
Hope your problem is that simple
Cheers
Harky

Thanks for that Harky the kill switch I have is completely enclosed epoxy and custom made with a stainless enclosure....In desperation I have unsecured the complete wiring harness ,( as this bikes wiring is an electricians nightmare )loosened every thing ...the bike now runs and stays running .....started jiggling and tugging on the wiring looms and the engine stops, so there appears to be a loose or broken wire/s somewhere, now the fun of finding it ....will check the +ve feeds to the injectors/ coils and the ECU first

That's @ least progress ! Wiring is fun for us all
Keep at it
Only a few sleeps to go
Cheers

Me again

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/190430236333?ul_noapp=true

This is a switch some might find useful
Can be NO ( normally open) or NC ( normally closed ) Or both , unusual but useful if you have a magneto And a fuel pump
Harky

Hey Gary, looks as thou you might be onto it with the wiring,, The first thing that came to mind was, have you checked your fuels(Methanol) Specific Gravity, .792 @ 20f, might be water

It seems you have caught my "backwards forwards" disease Gary, unfortunately, the only cure involves lining up all the planets ?
Most of mine lined up briefly, then my headgasket decided to water the oil,,,,,,,,,
Step away, and let the thought process do it's thing, is all I can suggest, then hope for a light bulb to appear above your head.
Tiny

Thanks Ronnie , I purchased an hydrometer for the fuel it measures in around 0.8 to 0.82 so it does have some water in it but not to bad seeing as the fuel is now around 10 years old for the first drum and 8 years old for the second, I'm to stingy/ poor to throw it away and get some fresh stuff. ...the problem is cross fingers hopefully a wiring one just need to trace and fix.
Tiny yes its always the case for under the shade tree engineering when building oddball stuff, everything is done on a shoe string budget ....cheap parts, tools and in my case limited knowledge and skills ..... hopefully I can sort it out before speed week, if not there is always next year.

Hope its progressing well Gary

Been chasing similar gremlins that turned out to be not enough crimp on connector pins and the wire backing out of the plug (but not enough to see) on the injector harness , lucky one of the primarys did it and it was easy to start diagnosing at idle then with multimeter , secondarys only kick in later when needed but 2 of them had done same

Hi Gary
try testing some of the continuity of wires with a load on then. say a 55 watt globe. and then give stuff a shake.
Also look for pins in plugs that are pushing out of the plug when you connect them.
G