theTRUTH

See cars and bikes being built for the salt

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coffeesnobs
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Re: theTRUTH

Post by coffeesnobs »

What an awesome build thread, thanks for taking the time to share it.

Can't wait to see it in the flesh next month.
DLRA #1440
2017 - 2015 Kawasaki H2R - 198.238
2018 - 2015 Kawasaki H2R - 212.867
2019 - 2017 Kawasaki H2 - 198.741
2020 - 2017 Kawasaki H2 - ***sigh***

russelllowe
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Re: theTRUTH

Post by russelllowe »

Thanks Coffeesnobs, not long now! Love seeing those H2's get thrashed too!

It was about this time last year when I was prepping and painting the frame, but even so I'm in a much better position ... all the running and rotating bits have been in and down the salt, so I'm confident it'll all go back together as it should (been spending a chunk of time refining the jackshaft/clutch setup ... should be more reliable).

Here she is, standing tall ...

Image

Not a huge amount different than last year, a few extra fairing support bits at the front and back, a loop to stop me (and the missus) sliding off the seat, and another loop at the back that will hold my second powerplant ... yes, thats right, powerplant number two.

As I'm running in "Fuel" this year, the V8 is going to be drinking something a little more exotic, but the other one ... thats something else entirely.

Four and a half weeks to go and we'll be on our way; looking forward to seeing you all there.

Cheers!

Stayt`ie
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Re: theTRUTH

Post by Stayt`ie »

Pointed towards the hevens Rus, is that an indication off the next powerplant to be used ? :D
First Australian to ride a motorcycle over 200mph at Bonneville,,,

russelllowe
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Re: theTRUTH

Post by russelllowe »

Si! A bloody good indication... what have you heard?

russelllowe
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Re: theTRUTH

Post by russelllowe »

Hi Everyone,

Just taking a quick break from theTRUTH to smash out a few nodes for a shade structure ... I'm following a design by Colin Clare which I think was adopted by the club for its shade. You'll see I've slightly altered it with 10mm round bars welded to the side of the 40x40 square tubes just because it was easier and I think stronger. They replace the square plates with holes drilled in them which are used for the cross bracing.

Image

And a link to Colins original design here http://www.russelllowe.com/PhD/theTRUTH ... ucture.PDF. I havent asked permission to publish it, so if anyone would like me to take it down please let me know.

Finally, my vertical poles are 2400mm tall, which seems to be a common height ... useful if you want to join up with your neighbour.

Should help keep the beers cold ...

Cheers!

DLRA
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Re: theTRUTH

Post by DLRA »

G'Day Russell,
those square bits are actually square washers you can buy at the bolt shop, mild steel or galvanised.
Trick for young players, if you are getting your pieces galvanised, they must have holes (10mm min) in both ends to let the liquid zinc get into every nook and cranny. If you don't put in holes you can air pockets and no coverage, or worse, they blow up.

There's a couple of pages I've put up,
one is a study of shade shelters - https://www.dlra.org.au/shade-shelter.htm
and the other is volunteer information including all the bits required and how to put them up and includes the plans - https://www.dlra.org.au/tasks/task-shade-shelter.htm
Keep the shiney side up........
DLRA WebMaster / Editor

russelllowe
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Re: theTRUTH

Post by russelllowe »

Hi Greg,

Aha! I wondered why the holes were in the tops. But if I'm following you correctly there would need to be holes in side of the vertical tube too ... where the horizontal tubes butt into it. My plan is the paint them with cold galv at this point; but if they are going to last then proper galv would be a good idea.

On something completely different, I picked up my first 3d printed part today. It's the switch housing for the clutch actuator. Quite something to hold a part you've created in a bit of software (Fusion 360).

Image

It'll clamp around the left clip on, the top holes are for the in and out switches, the end hole in the bottom is where the wires come out.

That red mark on my wrist is a burn from welding the shade node things, so don't worry, I'm keeping it real.

Cheers!

russelllowe
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Re: theTRUTH

Post by russelllowe »

Hi Guys,

Once again ... down to the wire!

Motor is back in and been running a few times; didn't make the kid cry this year ... I did shed a wee tear though, like it rose from the dead. Sounds soooo good!

Image

Working on the rear fairing. Just a safety thing really, don't think it will help with speed much but I think it will help if the bike wants to go sideways (the oncoming air pushing it back into line). There is a slight curve inwards at the back, just 40mm or so, following the NASA shape I used for the front fairing.

Where I've bolted it to the top of the non swinging arm has stuffed up using the standard GSXR1000 mudguard, so that's why you can see the tape on that part of the tire ... I'm making a flexible shape pattern to create a custom salt guard.

If you look close you can see a DLRA shade structure in the background. Needs some assembly.

Time to get busy!

Cheers!

russelllowe
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Re: theTRUTH

Post by russelllowe »

Hi Guys,

After sinking into a virus induced depression I've finally pulled myself together enough to put the fairing on the bike and shoot a walk around video: https://youtu.be/1Lz7fYMuc0I (head straight to 3 minutes 30 to hear her start up)

Image

Cheers!

tyrant
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Re: theTRUTH

Post by tyrant »

Good stuff. Long time lurker here. been watching this for ages, Disappointed this year but hopefully I get to see this next run in anger.

russelllowe
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Re: theTRUTH

Post by russelllowe »

Thanks Tyrant!

Yeah, really disappointing, we might find out today if Speedweek 2020 will be rescheduled to November ... I have my fingers crossed!

Until then though, I'm trying my best to keep cool ...

Here's a video showing the new radiator plumbing to tidy up the right hand side of the bike where it just juts out into the breeze ... and thought I'd throw in an extra radiator while I was at it. I had one left over when the GSX-R1000 melted great holes in itself.

https://youtu.be/dxE7UEN8-FQ

And the radiator mounting:

Image

Cheers

harky
Posts: 234
Joined: Fri Feb 09, 2007 9:03 am
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Re: theTRUTH

Post by harky »

round here ,up here , through there ————- hell man
that water is gunna get confused
remember. 4 pipes with mega s. is definitely a better sound than a truck engine 😳😳😳😷😷😷😷😬😬😬😂😂😂😂😂😁😁😁
harky
DLRA #643
so far 120mph for$2000---imagine how fast I can go for $20,000

harky
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Re: theTRUTH

Post by harky »

ok. serious reply
and it is a “ nice “ truck engine
Russell ,do you intend to have any aero bodywork over the engine ?, rear fin ?
harky
DLRA #643
so far 120mph for$2000---imagine how fast I can go for $20,000

russelllowe
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Joined: Mon Jan 06, 2014 2:21 pm
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Re: theTRUTH

Post by russelllowe »

Hey Harky,

What's with the serious reply!?! Just because the world is caving in doesn't mean we have to get all serious ... imagine where that might get us.

Yeah, I figure confused/turbulent water is water that wants to give up more heat voluntarily. More surface area with those long pipes too aye.

Got time for bodywork over the motor now we know 2021 will be the first time it'll get used like this. So yes to bodywork. Don't think I need another fin ... the side pod bits are fulfilling that role currently, or are intended to at least, and I like that they are in the axle line, not above it like a fin would usually be.

No, the big news for 2021 is a hybrid power plant ... subject to a chat with Graham ... will post details soon.

How's your motorised armchair coming along?

Cheers!

russelllowe
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Re: theTRUTH

Post by russelllowe »

Hi Guys,

I'm still not happy with my clutch actuation ... the cheapy 12v electric scissor jack motor and gear worked, but was too slow - about 4 second to fully lock up, but another 16 seconds to release completely. I think it would have been ok for this year, but I wanted a faster acting solution. Simpler would be good too.

I started pricing up a pneumatic actuator, which can be pretty powerful and quick when needed (disengaging the clutch) and slow when needed (engaging the clutch to take off at the start line). A single acting cylinder (clutch spring pushes it back) 63mm piston and 40mm stroke with a 3 port controller, some fittings and using the frame tubes as the reservoir crept up ober $1,000 pretty quickly. In past experience when it gets that high that fast I can expect it to go quite a bit higher before I'm done.

The problem with the simple lever that I used in 2019 was that it was long, real long. 380mm from the pivot (37mm the other way for a roughly 10:1 lever ratio). And I still had to give it a solid push ... 43kg worth it turns out.

Image

It also meant I had only one foot on the ground at take off, which wasn't ideal .. and it hung pretty low when I had it in while moving (wouldn't really want to turn left). Now, the fairing was in the way too.

The problem with mechanical levers is that to get less force at the input end you need them to be long ... in other words, the less force you want to input for a given output required the more you have to move at the input end. And moving gets in the way of everything. The solution popped into my head while washing my hands (two times through the happy-birthday song certainly gives you time to daydream). What about a ratchet? Then, what about a jack? I get the force I need and multiple pumps breaks down the distance moved into small bits that add up to a big bit.

At first I priced up converting a motorcycle master cylinder (rear one off a GSX-R1000 I had) into a jack ...$300 of -3AN fittings later I remembered a mate left his shitty trolley jack at my places years ago. I've used it maybe 3 times in 5 years ... 2 of those times one of the front wheels fell off. But it has a little ram ...

Image

And fit in the space really well ... and worked! About 7 pumps on the little stump where the lever plugs in and the clutch was disengaged.

Image

But then it occured to me that maybe I could just remove the ram, weld a hose fitting on the end of his jack, and turn it into a big master cylinder. It looks like I can...

Image

Weld on AN fittings only go down to -4 in the Rocket Industries catalogue I have ... but I just found a M10x1.25 nut in my stash of random nuts and bolts, so I'll weld that to a plate and then to the end cap, fit a standard M10 banjo bolt and see how it goes

Apart from finding out that racing is off until next near it's been a cracker of a day!

Cheers!

(p.s. I'll use a normal cable clutch lever mounted on the handlebar to do the pumping up and have another lever/cable to turn the release valve on the body of the jack to engage the clutch)

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