The Millennium Falcon

See cars and bikes being built for the salt

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Charliebrown
Posts: 16
Joined: Mon Dec 02, 2019 5:09 pm
Location: Geelong

Re: The Millennium Falcon

Post by Charliebrown »

Thanks Goggles,
*throws Tamai in the bin*
Girlfriend asks why am I throwing library books in the bin, I said "Goggles made me do it."

Hey Gaz, yes that sounds like a good idea. Ideally I'd love a Haltech Elite Pro, but that would also entail me having $3000 hanging out of my back pocket, which I just checked (I check frequently) I do not have.

I have been put onto a bloke who helped develop the PCMtec tuning software for Falcons. He is pretty stoked about my project. I'm not sure what he will charge me but on ebay you can post dudes your ECU and they will remove the PATS system off it using HPTuners for $100. Having said that, with my altered fuel system, injectors, fuel pump and big turbo planned for the build, I'll need to engage the help of a tuner in any event. I'm going to have a chinwag with the tuner I've spoken to about:
Option 1. Purchase aftermarket ECU, and then pay a dyno tuner to dyno and tune vehicle.
Option 2. Don't purchase an ECU, just purchase tuning software like PCMTec or HPtuners, and pay dyno tuner for his time to flash the ECU, dyno and tune vehicle

At this stage, just getting the Millennium Falcon to the salt without the maximum amount of expense is my main priority.
The bells and whistles will come later like aftermarket ECU, LSR tyres, cool as hell pit crew uniforms, grid girls, cup holders, self guided tour software "and on our right side ladies and gentlemen you will see the DLRA pit area, some delightful portable toilets, the merchandise stand, registration van and yes that gentleman in the budgie smugglers, and only budgie smugglers is not a figment of your imagination, that is in fact, Him in the flesh, Animal. If you wave to him, he may in fact wave back with one or more fingers. Please keep arms and legs inside the vehicle at all times."
Suggested to me was a Powertune Digital Dash
https://www.powertunedigital.com/produc ... 9346295856
which seems like a direction I'll probably go in any event.
Charliebrown
DLRA #1760
Don’t hope for the best, go and get it.
Charliebrown
Posts: 16
Joined: Mon Dec 02, 2019 5:09 pm
Location: Geelong

Re: The Millennium Falcon

Post by Charliebrown »

The engine plan.
Having reread the diary, I’ve realised there’s a few points I’ve missed regarding the LPG Barra engines.
For example, the LPG motor I have for the Millennium Falcon will never run on LPG again. The LPG motors are interchangeable with the petrol ones. They are currently a prize catch in the modification scene and are the best low buck route for boost up to around 500kW at the tyres. You’ll see the LPG Barras going for near $1000 or more on your local Facebook marketplace.
If you put a BF petrol intake manifold and loom on a BF LPG engine and run it on petrol, they run perfectly fine as they have identical profile camshafts, identical compression 10.3:1 and high temp valves and valve seats, and stronger con rods similar to the turbos. For all those who’ve hotted up engines in years gone by, what do we do? Put some compression into it (normal Barra turbo engines have dished pistons with 8.7:1 compression) some stronger rods and high temp valves. Well what do you know? The Barra LPG engines come equipped as such.
The Millennium Falcon doesn’t have an engine loom as the bloke will be using that in his XP falcon project. The LPG motor I got from Jolly’s came as a long motor only, and the engine loom wouldn’t have been any good as it is for LPG, which I’ll leave to the Ford Div Van of Alan Lacey#601.
Now to make it all work, I’m on the hunt for an engine loom. Research shows that the turbo loom only has a different map sensor (manifold absolute pressure sensor) which is easy to change over yourself, so I can start with a standard BF Petrol engine loom. Jollys has the petrol looms for $44. Apparently taking the loom off the BA XR6T is more pain than it is worth, with a lot of the pins on the ECU doing completely different things between the BA and the BF falcons. For $44 you wouldn’t bother farting around with the BA one to try and alter it to make it work.
After some intermanet research, the BF Falcon EGas, Petrol and Turbo engines all had identical profile camshafts being:
Intake
Open 27.5 deg BTDC
Close 48.5 deg ABDC
256 deg duration
Exhaust
Open 78.5 deg BBDC
Close 2.5 deg BTDC
256 deg duration
Cam lobes 0.212in
2.04:1 rocker arm ratio
Valve lift 0.433in
Then with the variable camshaft timing advancing 10 deg and retarding 50 deg whenever the computer thinks it necessary. Exhaust and Intake Camshafts have independent timing on BF falcons. This meaning that valve overlap for these things can be anywhere from -35deg to 85 deg.
There are some alternative aftermarket camshaft profiles available, but as with most modern cars, the factory research and development dudes have pretty much got the standard profiles spot on.
Replacement cam profiles are a thing of the past when it comes to computer controlled Barras. 99% of blokes racing them don't change them.
I’ll be welding up a J pipe for the exhaust manifold so I can top mount the turbo. Any turbo bigger than standard won’t fit down near the engine mount, so you either have to build or buy a new exhaust manifold that mounts the turbo up high. See attached pic off the net for what I’ll be doing with mine.
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Exhaust wise, I think I’ll be making my own, possibly just straight out the front guard behind the wheel, I’ll have to see how much real estate I’m dealing with. Probably a 3.5inch pipe.
I’ll need an upgraded fuel pump, with Falcons having an in tank pump only capable of between 250 and 300kw at the tyres before they are unable to blow what the engine can suck. The standard pumps are capable of pushing around 150 litres per hour, where Walbro make many different pumps, with Barra builders going for 255, 460 and 525lph models.
Speaking of fuel, bigger injectors will be required, 1000cc jobs will be probably be the go.
The Barras also have notoriously soft valve springs (50lb) so when you start pushing even 15psi of boost into them (stock boost values are 5psi, I’ll be looking at 20-25psi) you only have 35psi of seat pressure which won’t hold the valves closed at higher RPM, leading to the pistons shaking hands with the valves and then the engine ripping her tutu and tiara off and having a giant hissy fit. I’ll be installing something near 100lb springs in mine.
As my engine had a little oil leak on the block, I’m going to take the head off and have a little look see. A new head gasket will be in order I think and opening up the ring gaps may be an option also, depending on whether I want to go that far, although “just the basics”, oil pump gears, head studs, valve springs, lick the stamp and send it might be my motto so it gets to the salt ASAP. Keep it simple stupid.
See following link with Maxx Performance in Dandenong running a similar setup to my intended build, 528kW at the tyres and 1030Nm. I’ll have a bigger turbo though. I’m still having a back and forth with myself about size of turbo, whether it’s a Garrett G42 or Borg Warner s480, I’ll be guided by my tuning and parts experts I’ve managed to earbash.
https://youtu.be/x0AqNHGv-4g

The Millennium Falcon isn’t getting much attention at the moment as I’m currently replacing the fence posts on my side fence as the previous owners did a crap job and they’re all rotting out. I’m also installing a new bigger wood heater in our lounge as the current one is slightly too small and these 11degree days and 2degree nights aren’t much fun. I also have to clean out the gutters and install new alloy gutter guard. Being a father to Mr 10 and Mr 2.5 also a)takes a lot of time and b)is pretty good fun, let alone spending time with she who must be obeyed.

Til next time, take care and be safe.
Charliebrown
DLRA #1760
Don’t hope for the best, go and get it.
Charliebrown
Posts: 16
Joined: Mon Dec 02, 2019 5:09 pm
Location: Geelong

Re: The Millennium Falcon

Post by Charliebrown »

Not much building has been going on, just the side fence and gutters at my place.
Because the Millennium Falcon seems to have been used to club kangaroos to death, I managed to get a hold of new (second hand) left side doors and front left guard, then found a cheap BF2 bonnet, all straight. Just looking for a BF2 front bumper and front right guard. Let me know if you’ve got access to one in Melbourne/Geelong/Ballarat.
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Rule 3.V Hoods.
As the falcons bonnet does not open at the rear, I’ll need hood pins or similar to comply with rule 3V. I researched a heap of different types before noticing the bonnet latches on #295 Norm Bradshaw’s taxi. I thought if they’re good enough for that beast, they’ll be fine for mine. Ordered them online, they turned up and are bigger than I imagined, they’re pretty beefy so I’m happy with that.
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Rule 3.U Windows and windshields.
Bought myself some 4 mil safety film. Bought a 15m roll as I have to do all side windows on both sides and rear window on both sides, also headlights and tail lights whilst I’m at it. Once I get to the 200mph barrier, then it will have to be polycarbonate windows.
Rule 3K batteries.
Not sure where to mount battery at this stage. Ordered a main cutoff isolator switch. Depends where I mount the battery as to where I mount the switch.
Options are either in the boot with the isolator on the back of the car, or battery in the engine bay but swapped over to the passenger side as I’ll make up a turbo side intake for where the battery currently lives. If I do that, then I’ll put the isolator where the windscreen wipers used to hide or similar.
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Ordered interior main kill switch, 5 toggle switches, and start button.
I'll be running a water intercooler spray during each run so one of the switches will have that covered. I'll also be installing a flux capacitor, and am looking for a switch that can handle 1.21 Gigawatts. Any tips would be great.
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Have decided on the paint scheme but I think I’ll keep that under wraps until she gets to the salt.
I’ve spent the last week watching livestream of Bonneville Speed week as I suppose many of you have.
This fellow did a great job putting live stream videos up, they’re good for a watch.
https://www.facebook.com/GearheadHobbie ... 655324884/
Through a few excellent DLRA members I spoke to a parachute supplier in the USA regarding weight, speed etc of car and they have designed a custom chute ready to go once I finalise the final weight of the Millennium Falcon.
Meanwhile being near Geelong, we’re considered regional, so we’ve been locked down, let out, locked down, let out and now I reckon we might be locked down in the next few days again. Needless to say if it was currently speed week in Australia, I don’t think it would run. I guess we have to be prepared for that possibility in Feb 2022. I’m fully vaccinated with the Pfizer so I can’t really help our cause any more than that.
til next time take care and be safe.
Charliebrown
DLRA #1760
Don’t hope for the best, go and get it.
BIG GAZ
Posts: 354
Joined: Fri Mar 04, 2005 2:52 pm
Location: Sydney

Re: The Millennium Falcon

Post by BIG GAZ »

Sounds like it is really coming together well.
I notice that you pictured two isolating switches. The one with the field cut is the one to go for. With the other one, even if you disconnect the battery the alternator can still be generating enough charge back into the system to keep fuel pumps etc operating.
Remember to mount the switch so that emergency response can operate it easily so either on the outside of the vehicle ( I think Bob wanted everyone to standardize and have at the rear) or mount it inside with a cable or rod operation. While we are on electrics make sure the alternator is big enough to handle all the extra pumps, fans etc with a big cable to and from the battery.
Good luck.
GAZ
Charliebrown
Posts: 16
Joined: Mon Dec 02, 2019 5:09 pm
Location: Geelong

Re: The Millennium Falcon

Post by Charliebrown »

Hi GAZ,
My day job involves complex analysis and application of complicated rules and regulations all day every day.
On that point I did wonder about that wording in the rule book where the battery isolator switch doesn't require or mention anything in relationship to engine operation which you'd imagine that was the intention of the rule in the first place. It only mentions battery disconnect but not what that function should entail other than a disconnection from the battery, which as we all know is only a part of stopping an engine.
Seems like a rewrite of the rule book for section 3K, 7.H.20 and/or the definitions section is required there.
Looks like I have a new plan. I'll be operating this one on my drivers switchboard with a cable pull to the rear of the car, and possibly not utilising that other 2 terminal only main cutoff switch.
Image
Re alternator, the Millennium Falcon will not be operating the heating, air con climate control electrical system, windscreen washer, headlights, signals, etc so I'll calculate the amp draw on additional race car systems (which at this stage is just intercooler spray).
Thanks for the reminder Gaz as I'd just thought "ah it'll be right" but you are spot on, I do need to make proper calculations.
Charliebrown
DLRA #1760
Don’t hope for the best, go and get it.
Charliebrown
Posts: 16
Joined: Mon Dec 02, 2019 5:09 pm
Location: Geelong

Re: The Millennium Falcon

Post by Charliebrown »

Hi legends,
It’s been a pretty tough year here in the Millennium Falcon household. Needless to say the beast won’t be making an appearance at Speedweek 2022. November and December will be out also as the littlest member of the family has a major double hip operation with 4-6 weeks in plaster immobilised afterwards. Some highly stressful developments for me over these next few months on seperate topics also. Anyway, back to the live action:

The kill switch arrived in the mail along with the master switch. The toggle switches came, and look really great. Thanks to AliExpress.
I’ve ordered the parachute cable. I figured make the parachute cable outer blue, as parachutes are for the sky which on this planet is generally blue.
Fire cables red because in the absence of psychedelic hallucinogenic drugs fire is generally red.
I’ll make the kill switch cable to the rear of the car black.

I’m thinking two seperate fire systems, one marked "cabin" and one marked "engine". One 9kg fire extinguisher for each system each mounted on their side with bottoms facing forward so that under braking, (which will be the most likely fire bottle operation scenario) the fire suppressant will be forced forward.
Having the bottles mounted with their bottoms to the rear would make the fire suppression system possibly inefficient under braking. A google search of "car upside down" shows vehicles on their lid are usually horizontal or front downwards.
The Millennium Falcon’s structure profile and weight distribution suggests this would be the same for me, so fire bottles mounted horizontally with their bottoms to the front will be the safest and most efficient option.
The chance of me being in a fire with the vehicle sitting on its back bumper straight up in the air is pretty slim I reckon.
Please let me know what you think if you have a different idea as I have never built a race car before.

After a lot of research, I’ve contacted ColdFire Australia regarding fire suppressant, they can supply it in either 1 litre, 10 litre or 20 litre containers. For my 2 extinguishers I’ll get 10L and use it at the recommended ratios.
I’ve contacted the local fire brigade who do fire extinguisher certification and they’re happy to certify my 2 extinguishers for the standard fee. The coldfire material data safety sheet was a good read, non toxic, non irritant, non carcinogenic, will 100% biodegrade in 21 days if spilled.
A very good system for the salt lake, very safe. Puts out class A,B,D and K fires (ordinary flammable solids, flammable liquids (fuel, oil etc), combustible metals, cooking oils/fats etc.) This is a good idea because if Animal’s BBQ gets out of control, ColdFire will be the go for putting out the flaming chickens.
See coldfire extinguishers in action along with buckets of water on a methanol fire here at the 2009 Indy 500:

https://youtu.be/38BWi0gItwM

Items currently in research are:
Steering wheel quick release.
After a quick look at a few at revolution racegear in Mitcham, it seems the ones with a multi tooth spline are a lot tighter, no slop compared to a hexagonal shaft. Any suggestions here are very welcome.
Kenco paddle type spline quick release.

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Quick car paddle type spline quick release. I had a close look at this one at revolution racegear and it is very good.

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Til next time take care and be safe.
Charliebrown
DLRA #1760
Don’t hope for the best, go and get it.
BIG GAZ
Posts: 354
Joined: Fri Mar 04, 2005 2:52 pm
Location: Sydney

Re: The Millennium Falcon

Post by BIG GAZ »

Great to hear it is all coming along well. I find that race car stuff is a welcome respite from the issues we all face in the rest of our work/family lives.
Mine steering connector is a hex and I dont find it loose at all. I had to do some mods to fit the Jag steering shaft. Mine is also a button type which when you are hot and flustered can be a second or two slower to eject. The paddle or flange type looks good. Probably best to see which is easiest to modify onto your shaft.
Who are you getting the 'chute from and what diameter is it?
Gaz
Charliebrown
Posts: 16
Joined: Mon Dec 02, 2019 5:09 pm
Location: Geelong

Re: The Millennium Falcon

Post by Charliebrown »

Hi Gaz,
Yes, I’ll see what the steering situation is once I’ve got driver position, seat and cage worked out. Driver position might be getting set back a bit so that the containment part of the cage doesn’t block up the drivers door opening.
DJ Safety is the chute company. The Intended chute was designed with a guesstimate on my behalf of 4900lb or 2222kg. As I understand, the taxi is somewhere in the 3000kg ballpark. He said to let him know final weight of car with all fluids and me (not sure if I qualify as a fluid also?) as if it goes over 5000lb then the chute diameter would be different. The details he gave me were a 30-40ft towline, crossform shape but didn’t state the dimension of the chute. He didn’t mention it (probably forgot to) and I didn’t ask (probably forgot as well). It will be the absolute last piece of the car to be put together, so I have plenty of time to ask, not that the answer DJ Safety give me will mean much to me, not being a parachute aerodynamicist of course. Whatever they calculate will be just fine with me.
One question I have been looking at is the angle of the rear spoiler relative to airflow. Most sedans look to be around the 12-15degrees?
Charliebrown
DLRA #1760
Don’t hope for the best, go and get it.
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